One of the five main islands of Indonesia, it’s a wonder that Sulawesi has flown under the radar for so long with its diverse offering of nature, culture and tradition.
A relatively large island to the North East of Java, Sulawesi is a destination of special interest for nature lovers with an astonishing variety of animals and fauna throughout the island’s national parks and marine parks. There are several species of animals that are endemic to Sulawesi like the Babirusa wild boar, the Kuskus bear, Black Macaque and Maleo birds, which draw many visitors hoping to encounter these exotic creatures. Life under the sea is just as vast, with some of the best diving in Indonesia found around the remote islands and marine parks of stunning Sulawesi.
Other than the exotic wildlife, sea life and breathtaking natural environment, Sulawesi is a melting-pot of native Indonesian culture and traditions with at least 7 different ethnic groups originating from the island, each with their own unique customs.
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Why Visit Sulawesi?
From the highlands of Manado, to the heavenly oasis that is the island of Bangka and the paradise island of Lembeh, there is plenty to explore. Geographically speaking, Sulawesi is made up of diverse landscapes, including central highlands with deep gorges and gushing rivers, as well as waterfalls cascading from higher ground. The inland areas and national parks are dense with emerald jungles, whilst offshore you’ll find bountiful marine life, abundant coral reefs and plenty of diving and snorkel spots. It’s easy to see why Indonesia is one of the best countries in the world for diving, with spots like Bangka Island and Lembeh Strait being popular hot spots for divers.
Beyond the incredible natural landscapes, Sulawesi offers the opportunity for rich cultural exploration. There are over 40 different languages spoken with several different ethnic groups making up the population of 18.5 million people. You will find some of the most fascinating customs and traditions of all the Indonesian archipelago right here in Sulawesi!
Getting To Sulawesi
Sulawesi seems far-flung compared to some of Indonesia’s more popular destinations, but many spots in Sulawesi are easily accessible, such as Makassar and Manado. Makassar is the biggest city in Sulawesi with a population of around 1.5 million, making it the largest urban centre and the gateway to the island for most visitors.Â
- Makassar is a 1.5-hour flight from Bali and 2-hours from Manado, both served by direct flights. Citilink, Garuda, Batik Air and Sriwijaya Air all have flights between Denpasar, Bali and Makassar. Flights are around IDR 700,000 to IDR 1,200,000 (AUD $70 to AUD $120).Â
- Flying time between Jakarta and Makassar is around 2.5-hours. Citilink, Garuda, Batik and Lion Air fly this route, with flight prices usually around IDR 1,3000,000 to IDR 2,500,000 (AUD $130 to AUD $250).Â
If you are travelling on a shoestring budget, or simply looking to have an adventure along the way, there are overland and boat options from Jakarta and Java. The ferry takes approximately 36-hours to travel from Surabaya to Makassar which leaves once daily and costs IDR 320,000 (AUD $32), however we would recommend flying if your budget allows.Â
Best Places To Stay In Sulawesi
There are plenty of interesting spots to explore in all corners of this large and diverse island. We suggest taking a week or two to explore one or two different spots, depending on the objective of your trip and your interests.Â
Tana Toraja
Tana Toraja is one of the most fascinating cultural destinations in all of Indonesia. Tana Toraja is a province in the South Sulawesi highlands and home to the indigenous Toraja ethnic group, known for their complex customs and rituals around death and burial.
It is interesting to discover that the Torajan people celebrate death and continue to care for their dead long after they have passed. Beautiful ceremonial houses called Tokanan are used to house the dead until the elaborate funeral ceremony takes place, which usually occurs between the months of June and August. The ceremonies are so detailed that they can take up to a year to plan, where you’ll also see pigs and buffalos being bought or traded to give as offerings to the deceased ancestors.
If you are lucky enough to be in Rantepao when there is a funeral ceremony taking place, the Torajan people are very inviting towards visitors, happily sharing their culture and ceremonies. Mummified ancestors are often kept inside houses to be honoured. It is polite to take a small gift for the family, which can be something as little as a packet of cigarettes or a small amount of cash. If there are no ceremonies on, you can still visit the burial sites where the dead are embalmed in living trees as well as within the cliff face.
However, there is more to see beyond the spectacular graves and death ceremonies of the Torajan people. The region is rich in agriculture, dotted with remote villages and home to the Sa’dan River, a popular destination for rafting enthusiasts.
Tana Toraja is around a 4.5-hour drive from Makassar, and you’ll find some budget and mid-range accommodation options in the area.
Recommended Stays
Budget: The Singki Home Family
Mid-range: Toraja Heritage Hotel
Wakatobi
For those dreaming of seeing the vivid marine life of Sulawesi, Wakatobi is a UNESCO Marine Biosphere Reserve which offers stunning coral reefs and some of the best reef diving sites in the world, that are sure to be on every diver’s bucket list. There are 150 islands that make up Wakatobi, including 4 large islands. The islands are to the South East of Sulawesi and are very remote, so you will need to reach most of them by boat. Wakatobi is also the site of the Wakatobi National Park.
Wakatobi Dive Resort is the island’s well-known luxury dive resort. When staying there you will be picked-up from Bali on a charter flight and flown for two hours to Wakatobi Dive Resort’s very own air strip. For everyone else, to reach Wakatobi, you can fly from Bali or Jakarta to Wangi-Wangi and take a 4-hour flight to Wakatobi. Those flying to Baubau can jump onboard a ferry to get to the big island, however be prepared as this journey can take up to 11 hours!
Recommended Stays
Luxury: Wakatobi Dive Resort
Mid-range: Marind Dive Eco Resort
Budget: Areef Homestay Kaledupa
Togean Islands
Off the coast of Central Sulawesi are the beautiful Togean Islands in the Gulf of Tomini, a treat for lovers of the ocean, animals and nature, making it well worth the trek to get there. The Togean Archipelago is home to plenty of dive spots, with the 56 islands being some of the most remote in the whole of Indonesia. The Togean Islands are more remote than Wakatobi but well worth the visit as there are largely beautiful untouched beaches with powdery white sand, surrounded by virgin jungle and colourful coral reefs under the sea. Divers will have 30-metres of visibility underwater on a good day, although sadly there is some damage from dynamite fishing in the coral reefs.
From Bali, it takes a total of 3 flights and several boat rides to reach the Togean Islands. You will find the remoteness has helped to protect much of the nature and coral reefs from the impact of over tourism. The Bajo people of the islands are known as nomadic sea gipsies, living in floating houses at the Pulau Papan, free-diving for fish as their means of trade.
The islands are also biodiverse with many endangered animals inhabiting the islands including Hawksbills, Green Sea Turtles, and you may even spot the surreal Giant Coconut Crabs that climb the surrounding coconut trees. Lake Mariona is a very unique spot for ecology where you can safely swim amongst thousands of stingless jellyfish, having evolved to become totally harmless due to the lack of predators in their natural environment.
Other things to do in the Togean Islands include liveaboard diving trips, or even staying with a local Bajo family for an up-close-and-personal experience of sea gypsy life. You can also hike up the Una-Una volcano along a track that takes you on a 5-hour journey up to the crater, where you can see some volcanic activity and even swim in the crater lake!
The islands can be reached by boat in North Sumatra from either Gorontalo or Ampana. From Ampana the ferry takes around 7-hours, and from Gorontalo around 13-hours, which you may prefer to do overnight. Most resorts have private speed boats that will pick you up from Wakai and take you straight to the resort. The largest islands of Batudaka, Togean and Una-Una are where most accommodations and facilities are located, but the true treasures of the Togean Islands can be found scattered across the smaller tropical isles.
Recommended Stays
Luxury/Mid-range: Reconnect Private Island Resort and Dive Centre
Budget: Araya Dive Resort
Bunaken
A tiny island of just 8km² off the coast of North Sulawesi in the Manado regency, Bunaken is the site of many majestic sea gardens. Manado, one of the most popular destinations for travellers visiting Sulawesi, is home to popular dive sites and beautiful beach resorts. The waters of Bunaken National Marine Park are thought to be very biodiverse due to the oceanic currents, offering a wide range of exotic fish, corals, sponges and echinoderms.
Luckily, Bunaken is easy to reach with flights to Manado airport operated by 9 different airlines from around Indonesia. The easiest route is from Jakarta which takes around 3-hours and 30 minutes. You can reach Bunaken and its attractions easily from Manado by public ferry which leaves daily at 2pm, except on Sundays when it departs from Pasar Jengki near the Manado Harbour. There are charter boats that leave early in the morning, returning in the afternoon which you can book through agents.
Recommended Stays
Luxury: Bunaken Oasis Dive Resort and Spa
Mid-range: 3WILL Bunaken Dive Resort
Budget: Panorama Cottage
Bitung
The port city of Bitung is located on the harbour servicing Manado city. The area of Bitung covers the Lembeh Strait including the island of Lembeh and the foothills of Mount Dua Sudara. Trade and shipping take place in Bitung harbour, and the city is a centre for education and administration, making this area a real hub of activity!
The biggest draw of Bitung for tourists however, is Tangkoko National Park where you’ll discover a whole host of unique flora and fauna, as well as the rare Tarsiers, tiny nocturnal primates with adorably large eyes. You won’t find coral reefs here, but muck-diving is a popular pastime. The more adventurous can try their hand at diving for rare species of fish which can only be found in Bitung, as they hide amongst the loose sediment on the ocean floor.
Between Manado and Bitung, you can either drive or take a bus, which is around a 1-hour journey. Buses leave from Terminal Paal Dua or the Karombasan Bus Terminal.
Recommended Stays
Budget: Fave Hotel Bitung
Mid-range: Two Fish Resort
Tangkoko National Park
To the North East of Sulawesi in the district of Bitung, is the beautiful and peaceful Tangkoko National Park, where you can get away from it all and relax amongst the serenity of nature. The National Park covers the conservation area on Mount Tangkoko, stretching out to the gorgeous beaches of the Bitung area. A variety of unique wildlife inhabits the National Park, including Tarsiers, the tiny gremlin-like animals with big saucer eyes, as well as Black Macaques, Hornbills, Cuscus bear and Maelo birds.
Bitung is just an hour’s drive north of Manado, and to reach Tangkoko National Park it is an additional 45-minutes by winding asphalt road to Batuputih, from where you can access Tangkoko National Park. You can get a rideshare like Gocar or Grab, or there is also a Bemo bus service from Bitung to Batuputih if you are not short on time and want to save some extra cash. You will have sensational views of the jungles of the National Park along the way, as well as Mount Klabat and Mount Tangkoko.
There is an entry fee of IDR 100,000 (AUD $10) to enter the National Park, and you are required to hire a guide included with the 4-hour walking tour, with prices varying from IDR 100,000 to IDR 200,000 (AUD $10-$20) depending on the time of day.
Recommended Stays
Budget: Tangkoko Jungle Homestay
Mid-range: Tangkoko Sanctuary Villa
Sangihe Islands
A small cluster of islands north-east of Sulawesi, the Sangihe Islands are located close to the Philippines and are very remote, which is part of their heavenly charm! The Sangihe Islands are a true desert island paradise, with almost no other tourists on the pristine beaches. It is quite the adventure to reach but well worth it, as the beaches of Tamako are pristine.
A hike to the top of Mount Awu, an active volcano, is recommended as well as a visit to the jungle gate of Lelipang where the Tedunang Waterfalls can be found alongside savannah landscapes and lush jungles. Due to the remote location, you will want to make the most of your time on Sangihe by island-hopping and covering both underwater and land exploration. For those who like to dive deep into local culture, there are also traditional villages to explore, home to the Sangihe people who live by the coast and make a living as fishermen.
To reach Sangihe Island from Manado City, take an aeroplane at Sam Ratulangi International Airport and head to Melonguane Airport first which is a 1-flight. From Melonguane city, you can take a boat to get to Sangihe Island. The travel time is around 5-hours by the Bahari fast boat, or 12-hours by the local overnight boat, and each depart 3 times a week.
Recommended Stays
Budget: Wisma AssalamÂ
Mid-range: Tahuna Beach Resort
Rammang-Rammang
Rammang-Rammang is a village in the south of Sulawesi which has the second largest limestone karst mountains in the world, and a 1-hour 30-minute drive from central Makassar. Here you can take a boat along the rivers that weave and wind, capturing photos of the unique and breathtaking karsts and surrounding scenery on the way.
Other things to do and see in Rammang-Rammang include visits to Bureau Village, checking-out the firefly cave, hiking the many trails and taking a trip on a traditional boat up the Bute River, usually costing around IDR 200,000 (AUD $20).
Reaching Rammang-Rammang is relatively easy, and can hire a driver for the day from around IDR 600,000 (AUD $60). You can also use rideshare services like GRAB for approximately IDR 100,000, however you will have to find a driver back from the village as you will likely not be able to pick up a rideshare there, meaning that prices will be open to negotiation.
There are a couple of basic accommodation options in Rammang-Rammang, but you can also stay in Makassar and visit the area as part of a day trip, unless you are wanting to stay to catch a breathtaking sunrise over the impressive karst backdrops.
Recommended Stays
Budget: Nasrul House or Rammang Rammang Eco Lodge
Tomohon
A town lying between Mount Mahawu and Mount Lokon volcano in the northern highlands of Minahasa, the main attraction of Tomohon is its bustling market. Until 2023 the Tomohon market was a controversial site where all kinds of animals, including dogs, were sold for consumption. Thankfully, the sale of dog and cat meat has since been banned, and the markets now sell dry goods and other meats.
Near to Tomohon, there is plenty of sightseeing to be done. The Lokon Volcano and Mount Mahawu, as well as Lake Linow and Kali Waterfall, are well worth a visit. Here, you’ll find yourself surrounded by beautiful landscapes which, thanks to geothermal activity, have created fertile agricultural land with stunning displays of flora and fauna. The Tomohon area is easily reached and is just a 1-hour drive from Manado.
Recommended Stays
Midrange: Gardenia Country Inn
Budget: Onong’s Homestay and Café
Gorontalo
Just a 1-hour flight from Manado, Gorontalo is a small town with lots to offer. It’s home to quiet beaches, the Lombongo Hot Springs, Limboto Lake, the Tower of Majesty lookout, Otanaha Castle and the Ayuhulalo Waterfall. There is plenty of history and sightseeing to do in the town and it also acts as a gateway to the diving paradise of the Togean Islands. When heading to the Togean Islands, we would recommend spending a day or two discovering the charming town of Gorontalo.
Wings Air operates this route daily and Jalaluddin Airport is just 20 minutes from central Gorontalo city. Garuda are also operating daily direct flights from Jakarta, Denpasar, Surabaya and Makassar to Gorontalo. Overland, it is a 9-hour drive from Manado to Gorontalo by car, and a public bus also operates this route.
Recommended Stays
Budget: Yulia Hotel
Midrange: ASTON Gorontalo
Lore Lindu National Park
In the highlands of Central Sulawesi is Lore Lindu National Park, an amazing spot to visit if you are keen to get out and about and do some treks amongst nature. The park is rich in biodiversity, with over 77 species of birds, as well as large mammals such as the Tonkean Macaque, Tarsiers and many other species, with many of them being endemic to the area. There are also over 400 fascinating ancient megaliths throughout the national park, of which the historical significance has not yet been uncovered.
The UNESCO Biosphere Reserve of the Lore Lindu National Park can be reached from Palu City in Central Sulawesi by a 2.5-hour drive to Kamarora Village, where the information centre for the park is located.
When visiting Lore Lindu National Park, you can stay in Kamarora, where there are a few basic accommodation options.
Recommended Stays
Budget: Fidelia HomestayÂ
Selayar Island
A tropical paradise island with incredible diving and the world’s third largest coral reef, Selayar Island is located in South Sulawesi. Divers can expect to see an abundance of colourful coral, sea sponges, turtles, mantarays and plenty of fish including tuna and dugongs.
There are a number of white sandy beaches where you can chill in a hammock and soak-up the island vibes. On the land you may be lucky enough to encounter Tarsiers or even wild boar!
To reach Selayar Island, you can fly from Makassar to Aeroppala Airport on Selayar Island with Wings Air. There is also the option to travel overland by car from Makassar to Tanjung Bira which takes around 2.5-hours, and then an additional 2-hour ferry journey to Selayar Island.
Recommended Stays
Luxury: Selayar Dive ResortÂ
Midrange: Eco Resort Pulau Selayar
Getting Around Sulawesi
Ride-share apps like Grab make getting around the bigger cities such as Makassar and Manado very easy, so make sure you are prepared by having these downloaded on your phone beforehand. Blue Bird Taxi also operates in these locations and you will be able to organise private transfers through your accommodation and travel agents.
Outside of the bigger towns however, it’s best to have pre-arranged transfers and private drivers. Sulawesi is vast, and some of the popular spots are very remote. Various methods of transport including buses, ferries and private cars will need to be used to visit various places of interest.
Things To Do In Sulawesi
- Massakar is the biggest urban centre on the island of Sulawesi. A fun way to get to know Massakar is to spend an afternoon hopping on and off the small blue Pete-Pete buses that make their way around the city. There are 17 different routes distinguishable by the colourful stripes on the side. The fare is only IDR 8000 (AUD $0.80) and it is a fun and adventurous way to get around the city.
- Head to Rantepao in the highlands and learn about the unique culture and rituals of the Torajan people. See more info on visiting the Torajan people above.
- The Rammang-Rammang area is sure to be of particular interest for those interested in photography. The Rammang-Rammang karsts and villages are particularly breathtaking to see. You can take a traditional boat along the river and pass by lush jungles, traditional villages and view the incredible karst landscapes.Â
- The Tomohon market is a vibrant culinary market where dry goods, meats and other interesting food items are for sale. Previously, the market was the site of controversial dog meat trading but this has been banned since 2023.
- Diving is without a doubt one of the largest draw cards for visiting Sulawesi. The coral reefs of Wakatobi, a UNESCO Marine Biosphere Reserve, Togean Islands and Bunaken, provide world-class reefs for diving and exploring the breathtaking underwater world.
- Sulawesi is home to magnificent sandy shores. Spend some time hanging-out on the beaches with your feet up whilst sipping coconuts. You can do this at Selayar Island, or Pulau Samalona, Bira Cape, Tanjung Bara, Tanjung Karang and Pulisan Beach to name just a few spots, however Sulawesi has many idyllic tropical beaches across the main and surrounding islands.
- Bucket list locations for nature-lovers will be the Tangkoko National Park and Lore Lindu National Park where you can immerse yourself in the unique flora and fauna of the Sulawesi region. You’ll also find animals that are endemic to Sulawesi which can be best spotted within the national parks.Â
- There are a number of volcanoes to be trekked across Sulawesi. Conquering the Mt. Awu volcano of Sangihe Island is well worth the long boat ride. The volcano is still active and can be climbed in a day, including a trip down into the crater. Other volcanoes include the Lokon Volcano and Mount Empung twin volcanoes in the Tomohon regency, Mount Mahawu and Mount Soputa also in North Sulawesi, and Mount Klabat East of Manado in North Sulawesi.
Foods To Try In Sulawesi
The Sulawesi region has a variety of traditional dishes which sets it apart from those found throughout the rest of Indonesia. You will see a distinct Dutch influence in some of the dishes and due to its proximity to the ocean, seafood is widely used in a lot of Sulawesi cuisine.
- Bubur Manado, a classic comfort food from the Manado region of Sulawesi is a rice porridge made with vegetables like pumpkin and aromatic herbs such as lemongrass and kemangi, a type of lemon basil.
- Ikan Woku Belanga is a fish stew, with aromatic root vegetables used as spices.
- Ikan Bakar, a street-food staple, is fish grilled over the fire and served with various types of sambal (chilli spice).
- Ayam Tuturuga is chicken braised in turmeric and coconut.
- Brenebon Soup, a pork soup with nutmeg and cloves.
- Klapertart is a dessert with Dutch roots, made from rum, vanilla custard, raisins, coconut and almonds.
- Konro soup is a fragrant broth made with beef ribs and plenty of aromatic spices like galangal, cinnamon, coriander, nutmeg, tamarind, clove and lemongrass.
- Coto Makassar might be the most recognisable of Sulawesi’s local dishes, made with the organs of a cow and served alongside rice cakes.
- Nyuk Nyang is a local meatball dish originating in Makassar, usually made from beef.
Sulawesi Travel Tips
Much of Sulawesi is relatively accessible with good infrastructure, better than many of the lesser-developed islands of Indonesia. But armed with a few handy travel tips from us, you can ensure a smooth trip to the diverse island of Sulawesi:Â
- The main cities of Makassar and Manado, as well as the bigger towns, have most of the supplies you will need. But when visiting areas outside of those main hubs, you will want to make sure you bring all toiletries with you, as there are limited shops available to purchase these once you are there.
- Some more remote areas outside of the main cities and bigger towns may not have ATM machines, and beach vendors and small local restaurants will only accept cash, so make sure you prepare cash before departing for these areas.
- Sulawesi is a large island, so have a good idea of what you want to do and see whilst you are there, and carve-out an itinerary before going. 1-2 weeks is a good amount of time to explore two or three different regions in Sulawesi. You might want to do a tour of North Sulawesi including Tangkoko National Park, Bunaken and Gorantalo in 1-2 weeks, or Wakatobi, Tana Toraja and Lore Lindu National Park in South Sulawesi in that time frame.
- The Togean Islands are very remote, so you might want to allocate more time if you are including this region as somewhere you would like to visit.
- Wi-Fi can be unreliable even at cafes and restaurants outside of the larger cities. Your best bet is to have a Telkomsel Sim Card with 4G, which will give you the best coverage in more remote areas.Â
- We don’t recommend eating from street food vendors. If you would like to try authentic, local food, it’s best to try it at a hotel restaurant, while being vigilant about food hygiene standards.Â
- It’s advisable to travel with a fully-stocked first aid kit when visiting more remote areas. Should a medical emergency arise, we recommend visiting hospitals in Makassar or Manado.
