Halloween is fast-approaching and we felt like diving into the spooky side of Indonesia’s native ritualistic life with an exploration of Tanah Toraja, where complex death rituals and worship of the dead is a regular occurrence! Trigger warning – there are plenty of human remains and burial sites along the way which might give you the creeps, as well as animal sacrifices that are not for the faint-hearted!
Are you ready to sink your teeth into a 3-day, 2-night cultural exploration of one of Indonesia’s most ethnically-rich regions and its indigenous tribes? One of the archipelago’s most fascinating destinations, the Island of Sulawesi, is where pristine beaches, spectacular coral reefs and abundant marine and bio-diverse national parks come together, alongside the unique cultures of more than 8 different ethnic groups. One of the most distinctive being the people of Tanah Toraja, who are the native inhabitants of the southern central part of the island.
The region was uncovered by the Dutch East Indies government in 1909, and has since been visited by many tourists in the last century, including Western anthropologists who have gone to Tanah Toraja to learn about the ritualistic lives of the native people. The Indonesian government has been recommending Tanah Toraja as one of Indonesia’s most notable destinations for many decades, thanks to the many impressive UNESCO heritage sites located here.
Why is Tanah Toraja a destination worthy of your Sulawesi itinerary? The Torajans have unique funeral practices and social structures, as well as stone graves, ever impressive megalithic structures to mark burial sites, and the Tongkonan traditional wooden houses of the noble people, decorated with intricate carvings.
They are known for honouring the afterlife and also their deceased family members, often living alongside them in their homes. Until a sacred departure ceremony has taken place for the deceased, the person is considered sick and treated as though they are still living. They will even be offered food and drink, often remaining in the family home for months or years after their passing until a suitable burial can be arranged. This can take many years or months, as up to 100 buffalos and 50 pigs will need to be sacrificed during the ceremony depending on the caste of the family.
During the Ma’nene ritual, some families unearth the graves of their deceased family members to clean them and spend time with them once again, and you will see tourists gathering to observe the ritual, with both family members and observers taking photos. Beyond cultural exploration, the landscape over the vast highlands includes breathtaking rice terraces, bamboo forests, coffee fields and cacao plantations.
Come with us on a 3-day, 2-night Tanah Toraja itinerary filled with cultural discovery, friendly locals and lots of natural beauty along the way!
Table of Contents
How to get there
First you will need to fly into the capital of Sulawesi, Makassar. From Makassar there are a number of coaches running to Rantepao, with the trip taking 8-hours including a stop for lunch. You can organise a coach through a local travel agent in Makassar.
For more information on what to do in Sulawesi and how to get there, check out our Sulawesi Travel Guide right here.
Day 1
Arrive in Rantepao, the capital of Tanah Toraja, where you will find most of the accommodation choices in the area. Leave your luggage at the hotel and brace yourself for an exhilarating 2-days of exploration! Some hotels offer more of an authentic touch with accommodation in a traditional Tongkonan house, which is a great way to have the quintessential cultural experience.
Morning
Lemo Village is around 11 kilometres south of Rantepao and a good place to begin when getting to know Tanah Toraja and the region’s unique customs and traditions. We recommend taking a private driver or renting a scooter to get around during your stay, although the roads are steep and winding so we definitely recommend taking a car over a bike. At Lemo Village there are historical burial sites carved into the side of a cliff, and you can also enjoy expansive rice field views all around. There are over 70 burial holes on the cliff-face where wooden statues of the dead are displayed as a tribute to those who lay in the graves. There are wood carvings to see here also.
Where to stay In Tanah Toraja/Rantepao
Budget: Toraja Homestay & Coffee Bunna
Midrange: Rura Raya Homestay
Midrange to high end: Toraja Misiliana Hotel
Afternoon
Tampang Allo is another burial site, dating back to the 16th Century located in the Kaero Village in Sangalla, around a 20-minute drive from Lemo Village. The site is much less visited by tourists than Lemo. It is a short and pleasant 2km walk through the graves where you will see coffins and tombs hanging from the caves, as well as skulls and bones scattered all around, and wooden effigy statues called Tau-Tau. You will also catch spectacular rice terrace views whilst touring the area.
If you want to keep exploring burial sites, hop back in the car and travel a further 5-minutes to Suaya, where you will see more caves where bodies are stored.
Evening
If you are staying at a guest house, you might have the opportunity to enjoy dinner with locals in a communal setting, which we would highly recommend. This will also give you the opportunity to try native Sulawesi cuisine and have a personal Q&A session about the region’s unique culture with the locals.
Day 2
Take a walk around the famous Buffalo Market before exploring traditional villages in Tanah Toraja. Stretch your legs and breathe fresh mountain air with a hike amongst nature in the stunning highlands.
Morning
At the Buffalo Market, animals are mostly bought and sold for funeral ceremony sacrifice, with the colour of the buffalo determining its value. After the sacrifice, the buffalo is divided for the extended family to consume. Near the buffalo market, there is also a food market carrying dry goods like spices, vegetables and meat. You can see locals going about their daily shopping, and the market is particularly lively on a Saturday.
From Rantepao take a 40-minute drive into the highlands of Batutumonga, where you can have lunch overlooking rice terraces. Batutumonga is thought to be one of the most beautiful villages in Indonesia and is one of Tanah Toraja’s most popular tourist sites. With its elevated location high up in the mountains, you can expect to see breathtaking views over Rantepao and gorgeous rice terraces.
Afternoon
If hiking is something you are interested in doing, you can either climb to the peak of Batutumonga Mountain, which is a 6km round trip, or enjoy a trek through local villages to Tikkala which is a 12km trek taking between 2-3 hours. The latter is a downhill scenic hike passing through Loko Mata, bamboo groves, coffee and cacao plantations. At Loko Mata you will see traditional graves as well as a huge boulder grave and hanging tombs in Pana. You can have your driver meet you at Tikkala or you can return to Rantepao by bemo (public bus) which will only cost around IDR 10,000 (AUD$1).
Evening
At the local markets in town you can browse souvenirs and handicrafts unique to the region, including trinkets such as carved wooden statues of the local people. Dine in town at a local restaurant for some authentic cuisine. We recommend Pias Poppies for Western and Indonesian food, or Rimiko Restaurant for a great selection of meat and veggie dishes full of traditional flavour.
Day 3
Historical exploration of graveyards and megalithic sites dating back many centuries.
Morning
With a driver, take a short 10-minute drive to Kete Kesu, a quaint traditional village that’s around 400 years old. It is the most authentic of the villages in Tanah Toraja where the genuine way of life of the Torajan people has been well-preserved. From here you will glimpse beautiful panoramas of the surrounding highlands as well as rows of traditional Tongkonan Houses, one of which is a museum displaying artefacts from burial rituals. The burial sites here are around 700 years old, including caves where crypts have been carved and decorations of Tau Tau wooden effigies representing those that lay within.
Hop back in the car and travel a further 20-minutes to the Londa Ancient Graveyard, one of the more visited of the Torajan burial sites. To reach the caves where the tombs are, you will need to descend some stairs and may want to rent a lantern for visibility as you make your way around the caves. The Torajans believe the higher the crypt’s position in the cave, the closer they are to Nirvana, so people of a higher caste are laid to rest higher in the cave.
Afternoon
Bori Kalimbuang is a 30-minute drive from Londa and where you’ll see the Menhir – large rock relics dating back to the Megalithic era. The site is very peaceful and is a UNESCO heritage site. There are stone tombs and tall stone statues, as well as Tongkan houses, surrounded by rice fields which may be a lush green colour depending on the time of year you visit.
Head back to Rantepao, and spend the final afternoon relaxing at your hotel or at a restaurant.
If you visit around August, this is when most funerals take place, and one of the most interesting parts of your visit to Rantepao will be observing the families practise the funeral rites. If you are visiting during this time, you might want to add another day, to make it a 4-day, 3-night itinerary of Tanah Toraja.
Travel Tips For Tanah Toraja
- We do love an ice cold Bintang, which is available in some restaurants – but when in Tanah Toraja, why not try the local drinks! You might just find something that whets your appetite just as much as Indonesia’s favourite beer. Ballo is the local plum wine, and tamarillo juice is a sweet and sour drink that can be enjoyed by everyone, including kids.
- Pete-pete buses are used for public transportation and can be a real adventure! It is a cheap way of getting around Tanah Toraja and they service most places of interest. It can be slow going however, as the driver will wait for the bus to be full before departing.
- A Bentor is a three-wheeled taxi which can also be used for short rides. You may have to negotiate fares, so make sure you bring your bargaining skills! Rides should be relatively cheap, around IDR 20,000 (AUD$2).
- Private drivers are the easiest way to get around, expect to pay around IDR 500,000 (AUD$50) per day.
- The locals are friendly, so make sure you treat them with the same warmth and respect. Be aware that you may get asked for photographs!
- The climate is a little cooler than some other parts of Sulawesi and Indonesia due to the elevation level. Pack some clothes for slightly cooler weather and keep in mind that more conservative clothing is preferable, especially in traditional villages and throughout the Tanah Toraja region.
- When dining out, you may find that service and food is not up to Western standards, or that of more touristy areas like Bali, but we encourage you to be patient and lean into the local experience!
- August is the month when the dead bodies are brought out of the tombs to be redressed and also when most burial ceremonies are taking place.
- In June and July you will find the rice terraces are the most vivid green.
- Having a local guide may give you better access to funerals where you can observe the funeral rites. It is also good to have a local accompany you, so you can learn the correct etiquette for attending a funeral ceremony. Cigarettes and cash are accepted as gifts to the family of the deceased, so make sure you are prepared.
- Dancing, music and processions are all part of the funerals, with some funerals lasting up to 7 days and attracting 500 mourners who take part in the ceremonies.
That concludes your 3-day 2-night itinerary for Tanah Toraja! We hope you enjoy discovering Tanah Toraja and one of Indonesia’s most distinguished ethnic groups, as well as their rites and rituals with this itinerary filled with plenty of unique sightseeing and cultural experiences.
Looking to visit other regions of Sulawesi? Check out this blog with 7 Amazing Things To Do In Sulawesi!
