Raja Ampat
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It felt like the blink of an eye! One moment, our children were eagerly tugging at our hands, begging to join every family outing. The next, they were shrugging their shoulders and saying, “Do we have to come away with you? Can’t we just stay at home with our friends?” My husband and I exchanged a glance, tempted by the prospect of escaping on our own for a carefree getaway. But then, the realization hit us like a tidal wave… the window for travelling together as a family was rapidly closing. Those precious years of shared adventures and bonding over new experiences were slipping through our fingers.
So, we asked ourselves a crucial question – what could we do together as a family that would ignite our sense of adventure and keep our shared interests alive for a little while longer? We needed something that would pull us all off our screens, out of our routines, and into the extraordinary. For us, the answer was as clear as the crystal waters we longed to explore.
As a family, we’ve always had a thirst for adventure. Weekend road trips, camping misadventures and endless city walking tours in far flung lands had built a foundation of shared exploration. When my husband suggested we encourage our children to try scuba diving, it didn’t take long for everyone to agree. What we didn’t realise was that this decision would lead us to the magical world of Raja Ampat.
It started with a casual Google search… “Best scuba diving destinations in the world.” The results were overwhelming – pictures of crystal-clear waters, coral reefs bursting with colour, and schools of fish swarming like choreographed dancers. But there was one name that kept popping up, accompanied by photos so surreal we thought they must be fake, Raja Ampat.
We dove into the research. Raja Ampat, we learned, is a remote archipelago in Indonesia’s West Papua province, often called the “Amazon of the Seas.” It’s home to over 1,500 islands and the richest marine biodiversity on the planet. The more we read, the more enchanted we became. Coral reefs glowing like underwater rainbows, manta rays gliding effortlessly through the currents, and even walking sharks (yes, sharks that walk)!
As we kept researching, it became clear that Raja Ampat was more than just a diver’s paradise. It was a place where land and sea blended seamlessly, offering jungle treks, cultural encounters in Papuan villages, and sunsets so vivid they looked like paintings. For a family craving reconnection to each other and nature, it seemed like the perfect answer.
Raja Ampat feels like a world away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Like any great adventure, our journey there was a mix of excitement and organised chaos. It all began in Jakarta, where we navigated the lively airport, loaded with backpacks, diving gear, and a hefty dose of anticipation for the remote paradise awaiting us. If you’re travelling to Raja Ampat from Australia or Bali, you’ll need to connect to Sorong via Jakarta or Makassar, the primary gateways to this region of Indonesia.
The first leg of the trip was a 4-hour overnight flight from Jakarta to Sorong. We touched down in Sorong in the early morning, collected our bags and were met by a friendly representative from Papua Explorers Dive Resort. They helped us onto a small, air-conditioned van, and soon we were weaving through the streets of Sorong, a vibrant town buzzing with scooters, markets, and the occasional rooster strutting its way across the road.
The real magic began when we reached the harbour and boarded the boat bound for our resort. The boat was sleek with comfortable seating and shaded areas to protect us from the sun. As we left Sorong behind, the city’s noise gave way to the soothing rhythm of the sea. The boat cut through the sapphire-blue water, and one by one, the kids peeled off their headphones and captivated by the scenery, started snapping photos.
About halfway into the boat ride, we started spotting the iconic karst islands of Raja Ampat. Rising dramatically out of the water, these limestone formations were covered in lush greenery and looked like they belonged on the set of a fantasy movie. After 2 hours, in the distance, the overwater bungalows of Papua Explorers stood gracefully on stilts above the turquoise lagoon, blending with the natural surroundings. The staff greeted us with warm smiles, cool refreshment towels, chilled coconut drinks, and an infectious enthusiasm to host us for the next week.
After a brief orientation, we were led to our bungalows. I couldn’t resist heading straight to the hammock on the private veranda, where the gentle sway matched the rhythm of the waves below. Beneath us, coral reefs buzzed with life, a personal invitation to snorkel and explore the underwater wonderland just steps away.
It was then time to enjoy a welcome lunch in the communal dining area, featuring a mix of Indonesian flavours and international dishes, while admiring the house reef. Feeling fuelled and excited we met with the dive team to fit our gear, ready for the week ahead. As the day began to melt into the evening at Papua Explorers, the setting sun painted the sky in strokes of gold, pink, and orange, it was the kind of sunset that made you pause mid-conversation, the kind that seemed to linger just a little longer. The perfect setting for sundowners while the kids jumped off the jetty.
After another delicious meal in the traditional Papuan style restaurant, it was time to head to bed to recharge for the week we’d all been waiting for!
If you’re new to diving, many resorts, including Papua Explorers, offer beginner-friendly programs and learn-to-dive courses. If scuba diving isn’t your thing, the snorkelling sites are just as abundant and colourful. I encouraged a friend, who’s always had a fear of breathing underwater, to try a full-face snorkelling mask. For her, it was a total game-changer. She felt comfortable, relaxed, and elated to be able to explore the beauty beneath the ocean’s surface.
Beyond the water, the birdwatching and birdsong was unforgettable-spotting species like the Red Bird of Paradise felt like stepping into a nature documentary.
Evenings were equally magical. We marvelled at the glow of bioluminescent plankton, gazed at a sky blanketed with stars, and even tried night diving to uncover the hidden life of the reefs after dark.
My camera was constantly in action, with endless moments begging to be captured. When we weren’t out exploring, we embraced the tranquillity of the resort and treated ourselves to a rejuvenating spa session or two.
We visited Raja Ampat in October, and it turned out to be an excellent time to go. The seas were calm, underwater visibility was outstanding, and conditions were ideal for diving, snorkelling, kayaking, and island-hopping. It’s also the best time to spot manta rays and take in the stunning sunsets. October is the start of the dry season which generally runs through until April.
The wet season, from May to September, brings occasional rain and rougher seas but is quieter and ideal for birdwatching, with lush, green landscapes. Even during the wet season, sheltered dive sites still offer amazing marine life to explore.
We chose to stay at Papua Explorers Dive Resort, and it turned out to be the perfect decision for our family. Choosing the right accommodation in Raja Ampat depends on your priorities, budget, and travel style. If diving is your main goal, choose a resort near top dive sites with good facilities. For a cultural experience, homestays in places like Arborek offer simple, authentic stays with a chance to connect with local traditions. Accommodations range from luxury resorts like Misool Eco Resort to budget-friendly options like Kri Eco Resort. Some places are easier to reach, while others, like Misool, require more travel time. Liveaboard boats are also an option. The best choice will depend on how you want to explore Raja Ampat’s stunning nature and rich culture.
Our week in Raja Ampat was nothing short of extraordinary. Each day offered something new and unforge`able, from scuba diving and snorkelling over coral reefs alive with marine life—manta rays, turtles, and reef sharks—to kayaking through tranquil mangroves and hiking to jaw-dropping viewpoints like Piaynemo and Wayag. Exploring local villages gave us a glimpse into the warm Papuan culture and it was an opportunity for us to give back through gifting some school supplies to the children. Papua Explorers has a fleet of well-equipped dive boats which were our primary mode of transport for exploring during the week.
Raja Ampat has something for everyone. Whether you’re looking for untouched natural beauty, a chance to immerse yourself in a different culture, or simply to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of daily life… And knowing that Raja Ampat is deeply committed to sustainable tourism only makes the experience more meaningful, ensuring that this incredible paradise will remain protected for future generations.
The only downside to our holiday in Raja Ampat was convincing everyone it was time to go home.
