Sumba Travel Guide

Set sail on a journey into the soul-stirring environment of Sumba, where the rhythmic pulse of traditional ceremonies, vibrant rituals, rugged beaches and untamed landscapes showcase the island’s rich heritage and deeply rooted customs.

Our Sumba Travel Guide is your compass to navigating this exciting journey filled with authentic experiences. Let the spirit of Sumba weave its magic around you, as you embark on an unforgettable exploration into one of Indonesia’s undiscovered jewels!

Where is Sumba

Sumba is located in the West Nusa Tenggara region of Indonesia, positioned with the island of Flores to its north-east and Sumbawa Island to the north-west. Sumba island is approximately 11,000 square kilometres in size with a landscape that is more arid than found in Bali. Unlike many other Indonesian islands, Sumba does not have any volcanoes, instead the landscape consists of low-lying limestone hills.

Why visit Sumba

Sumba beckons visitors with its pristine white sandy beaches and rich cultural tapestry, providing an authentic escape from the tourist crowds found in many other destinations across the archipelago. Explore historic villages, indigenous communities and unique religious practices, such as Sumba’s fascinating Marapu religion with its traditional ancestral worship and funeral rituals.

The island’s National Parks offer a tranquil escape, free from bustling crowds and with minimal traffic. Adventure enthusiasts can indulge in thrilling water sports, hiking and bird watching amongst Sumba’s unspoilt landscapes, making it an ideal choice for those seeking an off-the-beaten-path Indonesian getaway.

How to get to Sumba

Here we will explore the transportation options available to get to Sumba:

By Air

There are some public ferries available, however flying is the fastest and easiest way to travel to Sumba. You can fly directly from Bali into either of the two airports on Sumba, Tambolaka Airport near Waikabubak (West Sumba) and Umbu Mehang Kunda Airport which is located near Waingapu (East Sumba).

If you are travelling to Sumba from outside of Indonesia, you will need to firstly fly into an Indonesian international airport, such as Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar, Bali or Soekarno-Hatta International Airport in Jakarta. From here you will then need to book with a domestic airline carrier to fly to Sumba – Citilink and Wings Air are popular choices with a flight time of approximately 1.5-2 hours from Bali and 2.5-3 hours from Jakarta.

Best travel times

The best time to visit Sumba depends greatly on your travel preferences and the type of experience you are looking to have. Generally, Sumba experiences two main seasons – the rainy season and the dry season, with each having its own advantages.

April to November (Dry Season)

During the dry season you will enjoy plenty of sunny and arid weather, which is ideal for taking part in outdoor activities such as exploring beaches, hiking and observing the island’s unique cultural events. Many traditional ceremonies and festivals take place during the dry season, allowing you the opportunity to immerse yourself in Sumba’s distinctive traditions. If you are hoping to experience some of the island’s wildlife, the dry season is also the best time in which to do this.

December to March (Rainy Season)

Sumba’s rainy season brings with it heavy rainfall and high humidity levels, but this is also when the island becomes lusher and greener, and the landscapes more vibrant. For surfers, the wet season is prime for epic waves, particularly on the southwestern coast. 

If you’re keen to experience traditional ceremonies and festivals during your Sumba stay, we’d recommend checking a local calendar beforehand to make sure you don’t miss out on any events. It is also worth keeping in mind that the dry season, especially around July and August, is considered ‘high season’ meaning that accommodation and car rental may be in higher demand.

Where to stay in Sumba

Known as Indonesia’s ‘Wild West’, Sumba offers a variety of accommodation options, ranging from luxury resorts to more budget-friendly choices. Here is our pick of some of the best places to stay whilst exploring this secluded slice of Indonesia:

Tambolaka/Waikabubak (West and South-West Sumba)

Although the town itself is not a main attraction for many tourists, its convenient proximity to the airport is certainly a plus, as well as offering easy access to the west coast. If you’ve come to Sumba to surf and explore the stunning untouched beaches, the south-west of Sumba is an ideal area to base yourself. Tarimbang Bay is a well-known surf spot offering awesome surf breaks. This part of Sumba is also where you will find the renowned NIHI Sumba luxury Resort, home to the famous Sumba horse.

Recommended Stays:

• Budget: Pasola hotel (near the airport)
• Mid-range: Ella Hotel
• Mid-range: Sumba Beach House
• Luxury: NIHI Sumba Resort
• Luxury: Alamaya Boutique Retreat Hotel
• Luxury: Lelewatu Resort

East Sumba- Waingapu

For an authentic journey into the heart of Sumba’s culture, look no further than East Sumba. It ticks all the boxes with its numerous traditional villages – perfect for those who are keen to find out more about the island’s distinctive culture and experience the art of textile weaving. Whether you prefer the comfort of luxury resorts or the affordability of budget guest houses, East Sumba also offers a diverse range of accommodation options to keep you comfortable whilst you soak-up the island’s vibrant heritage.

Recommended Stays: 

• Budget: Padadita Beach Hotel 
• Mid-range: Ecoresort Sumba Dream
• Mid-range: Sumba Adventure resort
• Mid-range: Tanoma Beach Resort
• Luxury: Kandora Luxury Villas

Getting around Sumba

Travel options are limited in Sumba compared to more developed Indonesian tourist destinations. Here are our recommendations of the best transport options available to you:

• Private Car Hire/Car Rental: Choosing a private driver or guide offers a hassle-free alternative for those who would prefer not to take the wheel themselves, and will typically cost around IDR 700,000 per day. Hiring a local driver on a day-to-day basis is a recommended option as it also provides you with insider knowledge on the local culture, as well as expert navigation through Sumba’s challenging terrain. Car rental is often a popular choice over motorbikes, due to the island’s absence of road signs, lack of reliable 3G to use Google Maps, and also frequent fuel shortages at petrol stations. Although pre-downloading maps for offline use before arriving in Sumba is an option, it’s worth noting that most maps of the island are not highly accurate. If you’re looking to rent a car and drive yourself, expect to pay around IDR 1,000,000 per day, however driving in Sumba can be challenging as many roads outside of the main cities are unpaved and contain potholes, making navigating difficult even with the aid of a map.
• Motorbike Rental/Ojek (Motorbike Taxis): If you’re up for the adventure, renting a motorbike can cost anything from around IDR 100,000 to IDR 150,000 a day and can often be arranged by your hotel. Whilst motorbike rental allows you the freedom and flexibility to explore the island at your own pace, it is crucial to have the owner’s phone number to hand in case of breakdowns or any issues during your travels. Ojeks (motorbike taxis) can be used for short distances and are more commonly found in the main towns, however be sure to negotiate the fare before you start your journey!

• Buses: Sumba’s public transport options are limited, but there are buses and bemos (shared minivans) that connect major towns. Keep in mind that routes and schedules can be irregular, often resulting in a less predictable travel experience! For those travelling between Waingapu and Waikabubak, there are hourly public buses with a journey time of around 5 hours. Waingapu has two bus terminals, one in south Waingapu and the other in west Waingapu, along with a bus stop in the centre nearby the market. Buses to Baing in the southeast, Napu in the northwest and the Lamboya district in the southwest are available, but do not run frequently. In Waikabubak, buses depart from the old market in the city centre, and for Pero, Kodi or Waikelo, you can connect at Waitabula. Smaller express buses operate between Waingapu and Waikabubak, offering hotel pick-ups with an approximate 4-hour travel time. Bemos are available for shorter journeys within larger towns, but these are often cramped and uncomfortable.

West

• Waingapu: The largest town on Sumba which also serves as a main port and vibrant market hub.

• Lapopu Waterfall: Stunning cascading waterfall with crystal-clear and refreshing water. Parking, restrooms and a small selection of food vendors are available. To access the waterfall, you must cross a small bamboo bridge and there is an entrance fee of IDR 150,000.

• Ratenggaro Village: Sumba’s oldest traditional village where you can take photos of horses and ride them for a small fee. When exploring, be mindful that some locals can be persistent in trying to convince you to purchase souvenirs. 

• Marosi Beach: Popular surfing spot and stunning sunset location.

• Mandorak Beach: Escape for a day at the beach, complete with white sands and coral reefs just waiting to be explored. Be sure to bring your snorkel!

• Waikuri Lagoon: Stunningly turquoise lagoon, perfect for taking a refreshing dip! The lagoon can be challenging to find and the surrounding roads are still under construction, so it’s recommended to bring a guide.

• Kodi & Pero: Traditional fishing villages with authentic houses and rocky beaches. 

• NIHI Resort Sumba: Award-winning luxury resort with its own private beach and famous Sumba wild horses.

• Watu Maladong Beach: Rugged beach with impressive rock formations, caves and rock pools.

• Pantai Watu Bella: White sandy beach with cliffs and caves – a gorgeous sunset spot!

• Managa Aba Beach: Ideal for swimming and to catch a sunset, this beach tends to attract a larger crowd compared to others due to its closer proximity to Tambolaka.

• Waikabubak Village: This unique traditional Sumbanese village is one of the most significant spiritual centres on the island with its stone graves and thatched roofs. 

East

• Walkabubak: Sumba’s second largest town.

• Mbawana Beach: Breathtaking clifftops as well as a great vantage point for watching sunset. Brace yourself for a bumpy ride on the road down! Getting down to the beach requires navigating a steep and occasionally slippery trek. It’s also worth noting that a recent earthquake resulted in the collapse of one of the iconic rock archways.

• Tenggedu Waterfall: This majestic waterfall is also known as the ‘Grand Canyon of East Sumba’ and is accessible by a short walk and some stairs. 

• Walakiri Beach: One of the most popular beaches in Sumba, characterised by its calm waters, white sands and mangroves known as the ‘dancing trees’ due to their appearance at sunset time. 

• Wairinding Hill: On the way to Walakiri Beach, this scenic hill presents the perfect spot for sunset chasers. With picturesque hills that offer excellent hiking opportunities, the landscape is at its best during the rainy season when vibrant green hues blanket the hillsides.

• Tarimbang Beach: Beautiful long white sandy beach which is accessible by a bumpy, paved road.

• Air Terjun Wai Marang: Cascading waterfall that opens into a wide plunge pool. It takes around 30 mins to trek to the waterfall but the walk is suitable for kids. The location is slightly difficult to find so we’d recommend hiring a guide. 

• Waimarang Waterfall: Discover this impressive waterfall boasting a sizable swimming hole, accessible from a relatively easy 2km/30 min trek.

• Kampung Raja Prailiu: Explore this traditional village near Waingapu, witness the intricate process of textile manufacturing and marvel at traditional thatched-roof houses and tombstones. There are also opportunities to buy ikat textiles, jewellery and crafts, as well as dress-up in Sumbanese clothing for an authentic cultural experience.

Things To Do In Sumba

Now that you have found out about Sumba’s most amazing spots, let’s dive into some of the best activities you can do on the island to make the most of your epic trip:

• Attend the Pasola festival: This unique cultural spectacle features a traditional spear-throwing competition, where skilled horsemen engage in thrilling battles every February and March. The festival takes place in Kodi and Lamboya, Wanokaka and Gaura where you can see first-hand the Sumbanese people’s close connection to the island’s horses with celebrations showcasing the island’s indigenous traditions in a vibrant atmosphere. Be aware that this may not be suitable for children due the festival’s gory nature – there are often injuries and on occasion these can be very serious!

• Hiking: With its diverse terrain and breathtaking landscapes, Sumba is a hiker’s paradise! From lush hills to coastal trails and hidden waterfalls, discover plenty of pristine beaches, traditional villages and stunning viewpoints that are just waiting to be shared!

• Surfing and Water-sports: Surfers will be spoilt for choice with heaps of world-class surf breaks along Sumba’s wild coast, and windsurfers can also harness the island’s winds for an exhilarating ride! Grab a paddleboard and explore the pristine lagoons, kayak along the scenic shores or snorkel amongst vibrant coral reefs teeming with marine life. Sumba’s waters promise an aquatic playground for every water sports enthusiast.
• Even more Surfing: Watu Maladong Beach, Marosi Beach and Tarimbang Beach provide the perfect canvas for every wave rider’s dream. With their consistent swells and epic coastal landscapes, these Sumba surf havens beckon those adventurers seeking the ultimate ride! Immerse yourself in the raw beauty of Sumba whilst catching world-class waves at these surfers paradises.

Foods to try in Sumba

Sumba’s food scene dances to its own beat, a bit different from the Bali rhythm and other nearby islands. Restaurants will serve mostly local cuisine with a sprinkling of Western comfort foods like pizza and pasta.

If you’re feeling adventurous, there are some quirky local dishes to tickle your taste buds. But a word to the wise, maybe skip the street-food scene as hygiene standards may not always meet your expectations.

• Bokosawu Nyale: This is a real unique dish and maybe not one for the faint-hearted! It’s made from sea worms that surface once a year and is prepared with a medley of basil or lemon, giving it a delectable seafood flavour. 

• Ka Pu Pantunnu: This typical food for the Sumbanese people is made from banana blossoms which are roasted with grated coconut and served alongside corn rice, fish or chicken.

• Nga’a Watary Patau Kabbe: A type of corn rice mixed with kidney beans and served with chicken. Corn rice is usually eaten in Sumba instead of plain white rice and offered with a side of soupy vegetables.

• Manu Pata’u Ni: Usually this dish is served as a sign of respect and when welcoming guests. The chicken meat is slowly marinated in a coconut milk mixture and cooked until tender.

Travel Tips

Get the most out of your Sumba escape with these helpful travel tips:

• We recommend staying in Sumba for 5-7 days to get the most out of exploring all that the island has to offer.
• If you are planning to visit both sides of Sumba island, you may want to consider flying between Waingapu and Waikabubak to cut down on travel time.
• Keep in mind that Wifi and 3G are not very reliable throughout the island.
• Exercise caution when selecting your food choices – if in doubt, nasi goreng is usually a safe option.
• English is not widely spoken in Sumba, especially out of the main towns which can make communication a challenge, so hiring a driver or guide is advisable. 
• During the rainy season, waterfalls may appear less picturesque due to heavy rainfall, and flooded roads might hinder access to certain locations.
• ATMs are available in Tambolaka and scattered throughout the island, but be sure to bring some cash with you.
• Avoid pre-booking package deals as they tend to be overpriced. Instead wait until you arrive in Sumba and hire a local guide or driver for a more authentic experience. 
• Note that some places may have varied names and spellings due to the many different languages that are spoken on the island.
• Malaria is relatively common so make sure that you are vaccinated before travelling to Sumba and take a well stocked first aid kit.
• Keep away from stray dogs and other animals as there are cases of rabies on the island.
• Exercise caution near rivers and estuaries due to the presence of crocodiles, and definitely refrain from swimming in these areas!