If you’re craving a next-level Indonesian escape that’s a little off-the-beaten-path, it’s time to set your sights on Sumbawa. Nestled between Lombok and Flores in the West Nusa Tenggara province, this underrated gem is still flying under the radar – for now. Here, it’s all about big nature, wide open spaces and unforgettable adventures – including a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to swim with whale sharks in the wild!
Unlike its famous neighbours Bali and Lombok, Sumbawa is wonderfully low-key. It’s got the beaches, waterfalls and warm-hearted hospitality, minus the crowds. The island is deceptively large, so don’t expect to see everything it has to offer in just four days. For first-timers, the region of Sumbawa Besar is the perfect base if, like us, you are looking to tick off the ultimate wildlife bucket-list thrill of encountering whale sharks in their natural habitat.
Get ready to read all about what happened during our unforgettable 4-day, 3-night Sumbawa adventure, where we got to swim with the ocean’s gentle giants, as well as all of our top tips on how you too can explore Sumbawa’s island magic!
Table of Contents
Day 1: Arrive in Sumbawa – Relax Into Island Life
The flight from Bali’s Gusti Ngurah Rai Domestic Terminal to Sumbawa’s Sultan Muhammad Kaharuddin Airport was just under an hour with Wings Air, where we were met by a driver from Samawa Seaside Resort, our base for the next few days. After a 25-minute drive along Sumbawa’s wide and sparsely populated streets, we arrived at the resort and were refreshed with cold towels and a chilled welcome drink made of tamarind.
Samawa Seaside Resort is located in Tanjung Manangis, just opposite the popular spot of Moyo Island. This 3-star resort is situated amongst expansive green lawns, colourful flowing fauna and boasts tranquil ocean front views.
We were staying in a Twin Room with garden view, along with all the amenities you could need for your island getaway: air-conditioning, Wi-Fi, flat-screen TV, and tea & coffee making facilities. As well as an onsite restaurant and infinity pool, the resort also provides massage treatments and can organise a selection of recreational activities to help you get out and explore the local area.
One of Sumbawa’s biggest draws is the opportunity to spot and swim with whale sharks. These gentle ocean giants can grow up to 11-metres long, and the island has a range of local companies who offer daily whale shark tours to see these magnificent creatures up-close. As something that had been on our bucket-list for years, this was an opportunity we weren’t going to turn down, and we booked directly with the hotel for the following morning.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing on daybeds dipping in and out of the pool, drinking coconuts, nibbling snacks and enjoying the sunshine. Having come from Bali, what really stood out to us was the peacefulness of the surroundings, with the only sounds being the chirping of the birds above us – it was total island bliss!
That evening, we dined at Samawa’s on-site restaurant, where we chose from a variety of local and Western dishes. Being a predominantly Islamic island, you won’t find pork on the menu, but plenty of delicious chicken, fish, beef and vegetable dishes. Keep an eye out for Ayam Taliwang (spicy chicken), Ikan Bakar (grilled fish) & Se’i Sapi (smoked beef), which are specialities of the island.
After confirming our breakfast box food choice to take with us on our whale shark tour tomorrow morning, as well as our pick-up time (1:30am!), we headed to our lumbung cottage for an early night.
Day 2: Swim with Whale Sharks – A Once in a Lifetime Experience!
Slightly blurry-eyed (but also very excited), we promptly made our way to the private vehicle already waiting for us at 1:30am. Here, we were introduced to our driver and guide who would be leading our whale shark tour. Luckily for us, there was no one else we needed to collect on the way, so we set off on the 2-hour drive to Desa Labuan Jambu harbour, grabbing some sleep along the way.
We arrived at the pick-up point just after 3:30am and climbed aboard a traditional wooden fishing boat. As well as our guide and driver, our crew was completed with the captain and his assistant, navigating the calm ocean using a small boat motor. The journey to the whale shark sighting area would take 1.5hrs, so we’re instructed to settle in and get comfy on the blankets and pillows provided. Lying on our backs, we stared up at the night sky, spotting the Milky Way and shooting stars before the rhythmic motions lulled us to sleep.
As dawn started to break on the horizon, we awoke to the boat’s motor coming to a stop and the beaming lights of a local fishing trawler. The fishermen were throwing what looked (and smelled) like burley into the water, and there waiting below were the open, gawping mouths of two whale sharks. Our guide informed us that the whale sharks would come by daily for a good feed and then, once they’d had enough, swim off. The two whale sharks playfully swam beside our boat, and we could clearly see that one was an adult and the other its calf.
They were magnificent, and after putting on our masks and flippers, we couldn’t wait to get an underwater view. Despite the sun having only recently risen, the ocean wasn’t too cold. We were informed by our guide not to get in the way of the whale shark’s powerful tail and also not to touch the whale sharks due to their sensitive skin.
As we ducked our heads underwater, you couldn’t help but gasp at the sheer size of the whale sharks. We watched as they fed and swam around us, occasionally venturing closer for a playful look. Our guide captured some moments on the GoPro, leaving us free to simply enjoy the moment – and what a moment it was! Snorkelling and diving under the water with these gentle giants was a total bucket list experience, and we couldn’t believe how lucky we were.
Later on, we were joined by a third whale shark who was keen to muscle-in on some food. Aside from two other boats that had briefly joined us earlier, we had this moment all to ourselves – it really was a dream come true!
After over an hour of swimming, we climbed back on board and ate our breakfast box that had been prepared by the resort. As we nibbled on some fresh watermelon, the whale sharks did one last circle of the boat to say goodbye and then made their way off into the vast ocean. This left us to make our way back to shore to begin our journey back to the hotel, our hearts full of a most magical underwater encounter.
Back at the resort, we freshened up, enjoyed some time by the pool and took advantage of an early dinner after our very early start to the day. Needless to say, we all slept well that night!
Day 3: Choose Your Own Adventure
We awoke feeling refreshed and rejuvenated, making our way to the restaurant for their buffet breakfast. Looking out to clear ocean views with Sumbawa’s mighty Mount Tambora in the distance, we enjoyed a selection of eggs, pancakes, vegetable noodles, chicken, nasi goreng, toast with spreads (including the island’s speciality locally-produced honey), tea and Sumbawa coffee.
Depending on how you’re feeling after yesterday’s early start, you can either spend the day relaxing poolside or take this opportunity to explore some of the area’s top sights, including visiting Poto Village to see some local Ikat weaving firsthand, the nearby mangrove park, Sumbawa Besar Museum, check out Istana Dalam Loka (the King’s palace built in 1885 by Sultan Muhammad Jallaludin III), grab some souvenirs at Seketeng Market, or pay a visit to the children’s charity Taman Bacaan Pelangi in Semamung Village.
Those looking to do some island-hopping can take a local boat over to Moyo Island to enjoy a cooling swim in the spectacular Mata Jitu Waterfall. This enchanting tiered waterfall is located in the middle of a forest, boasting turquoise, crystal-clear waters and serene surroundings that feel like something out of a fairytale. Snorkellers will love the clear waters of Takat Sagele, a small sandy coral-lined island that is completely submerged at high tide.
For us, we decided to take a more laid-back approach to the day, heading down to the beach to collect shells and enjoy a refreshing swim in the calm waters. Afterwards, we relaxed poolside with a book and an ice-cold beer with the sights and sounds of nature to keep us company – including a sizeable monitor lizard who made a hasty retreat once he realised he wasn’t alone!
As the sun began to set, the sky to the west turned a gentle pastel hue of orange and pink, signalling that it was time to freshen up and make our way to the restaurant for one final dinner. We dined on a mixture of international classics including burgers and spaghetti, alongside Indonesian favourites like Cap Cay, Kangkung and Kare Ikan. Bellies full and content, we wandered back to our room to pack our bags ready for tomorrow’s reluctant departure.
Day 4: A Final Morning in Sumbawa
After our last breakfast and lots of goodbyes from the welcoming staff, we loaded up the car and made the short 25-minute journey back to the airport, ready to catch our flight back to Bali.
Although it was only a few days, this Sumbawa getaway had certainly left a big impression. There’s travel, and then there are moments that completely blow you away – and swimming with whale sharks in Sumbawa was exactly that. Getting up at 1:30am has never felt so worth it! To float beside these gentle giants in their natural habitat was pure magic and easily one of the most incredible things we’ve done. Combine that with the island’s peaceful, laid-back setting and stunning backdrops, and Sumbawa has proved to be a destination that we’ll be raving about for years to come.
Places to Stay
Budget:
- Samawa Transit Hotel
- Hotel Grand Samota
- Maleo Moyo Hotel & Dive Resort
Mid-Range:
- Samawa Seaside Resort
- Villa Aqila
- Moyo Island Resort
Luxe:
- Amawana
- Kini Resort
- Kirana Retreat
What to Pack for Your Whale Shark Adventure
A day spent swimming with whale sharks in the clear waters of Sumbawa is what tropical holiday dreams are made of – but a little preparation goes a long way to make sure it’s as smooth and sustainable as possible.
Here’s what we recommend bringing with you:
- Reef-Safe Sunscreen: Protect your skin without harming the delicate marine ecosystem. Choose a mineral-based formula and apply it well in advance of entering the water.
- Swimwear & Rash Guard: A rash guard provides extra protection from the sun and can help avoid skin irritation when snorkelling.
- Quick-Dry Towel & Spare Clothes: After your swim, you’ll appreciate a dry change of clothes and something warm for the journey back.
- Underwater Camera or GoPro: If you’d like to capture the magic, bring along a waterproof camera, and the guides can help you snap some epic shots for the holiday memory books!
- Dry Bag: Keep your essentials like your phone, wallet and snacks safe from saltwater splashes.
- Reusable Water Bottle: Stay hydrated without contributing to plastic waste!
- Hat & Sunglasses: It can be breezy on the open water, so sun protection is key.
- Motion Sickness Tablet: If you’re sensitive to boat rides, having these on hand can save the day!
- Snorkel & Mask: Most tour operators will provide snorkelling gear, but if you have a favourite mask or snorkel, you may want to bring it along.
Final Tips for Your Sumbawa Getaway
- Book your whale shark tour in advance – Although it is possible to see whale sharks throughout the year, the peak months of May to October can often book out as spots are limited. We would recommend booking through your accommodation like we did, as not only does it make things easier, but it usually includes transport too.
- Check reviews to make sure that your whale shark tour is as ethical as possible – Choose a tour operator that prioritises small group sizes, limits time in the water and follows strict ‘no touch’ policies. Overcrowding can stress these gentle creatures and disrupt their natural behaviour, so it is worth doing a little homework to support responsible tourism. We went early in the season and we’re fortunate enough to have this experience all to ourselves.
- Respect the wildlife – Whale sharks are mighty, but sensitive creatures. Do not touch them and make sure to give them space – their tails pack a serious punch!
- Prepare for an early start – Whale shark tours typically start very early in the morning, so get an early night before and pre-order a breakfast box from your hotel. You may want to bring snacks also.
- Carry cash – ATMs can be hard to find in more remote areas, so bring cash with you.
- Dress modestly off the beach – Sumbawa is a predominantly Islamic island, so pack a light scarf or cover-up to be respectful when walking around town or visiting villages.
- Pick up some keepsakes of the unique culture – Sumbawa is well-known for its speciality coffee called Kopi Robusta Tambora, their local honey and intricate basket weaving, which makes for the perfect holiday memento.
- Stay connected (if you want to) – Wi-Fi is available at most resorts, but mobile signal can be patchy in remote areas. A local SIM card can help if you need coverage.
- Soak in the silence – Saying that, one of Sumbawa’s biggest charms is its peace and quiet. Embrace the slower pace, switch off your notifications, and soak in the natural rhythms of island life.
For more amazing tips, check out our Sumbawa Travel Guide here!
