Sumbawa Travel Guide

Nestled in West Nusa Tenggara Province lies Sumbawa. This expansive island offers diverse landscapes, from volcanic soil supporting a massive agricultural industry to arid climates perfect for adventure. Whether you’re surfing uncrowded breaks, kitesurfing, diving, exploring archaeological sites, or engaging in cultural experiences, Sumbawa promises an unforgettable adventure. Use this Sumbawa travel guide to make the most of both the main island and its stunning offshore islands!

Where is Sumbawa?

Sumbawa is part of West Nusa Tenggara Province with Lombok to the west, Flores to the east and Sumba to the south-east. This island is a biggie, covering 15,440 square kilometres, which is three times the size of Bali! So some itinerary planning is a must to make sure that you can cover as much of this awesome main island and smaller offshore islands as possible!

Bima, is the largest city which is located on the eastern central side. The majority of the population in Sumbawa is Islamic and here the native languages are Bahasa Sumbawa (similar to the Lombok Sasak language) and Bahasa Bima which is found more so in the east. However, Bahasa Indonesian, the universal language of Indonesia, is widely spoken throughout all the islands. 

The land and climate are arid, but due to its volcanic soil there is a massive agricultural industry, particularly in south-west Sumbawa where you’ll find plenty of large gold and copper mines. 

Why Visit Sumbawa?

Sumbawa is a great place to visit if you are a surfer, nature junkie or all round adventure seeker. Some of the things that might attract you to Sumbawa include;

• Surfing uncrowded breaks
• It’s one of the best spots for Kitesurfing in Indonesia
• Diving, snorkelling and exploring the stunning underwater landscapes 
• Other watersports
• Exploring quiet unspoiled bays and other natural attractions
• Archeological sites dating back to the ‘New Stone Age’
• Seeing traditional events such as water buffalo racing and other cultural experiences like Berempuk (a ritual boxing match).
• Climbing Mount Tambora over 2-3 days
• Island-hopping around the outer islands

How To Get To Sumbawa

As Sumbawa is a large island, the best way to get there depends on which part of the island you are travelling to. There are also options to bring your car or scooter with you from Bali or Lombok.

Flying

Wings Air flies twice a day from Denpasar to Bima via Lombok Praya airport. The total travel time including stop over is 1 hour and 45 minutes. Usually you do not disembark the plane in Lombok Praya.

You can also fly from Jakarta via Lombok Praya and many local airline companies such as Wings, Lion and Batik Air cover this route. It takes around 3 hours and 15 minutes, including a stop over in Lombok. 

For Lakey Peak and the east of Sumbawa it is best to fly into Bima airport, central Sumbawa which takes approximately 1.5 hours.

To reach west Sumbawa, you can fly into Sumbawa Besar Airport, connecting through Lombok Praya. The flight from Lombok Praya is around 30 minutes. If you’re planning to drive, the travel time from Sumbawa Besar to west Sumbawa can take 3 hours, so it is usually a faster and easier option to take the ferry from Lombok. 

Flying + Overland + Boat

If you are travelling to west Sumbawa you can fly to Lombok Praya from Bali, take a transfer to Kayagan Harbour in Lombok and then a 1 hour and 45 minute ferry to reach Sumbawa. 

There is also a 1.5 hour ferry ride from the eastern Lombok port of Labuan Lombok to Poto Tano in west Sumbawa and the ferries leave every hour around the clock. This is a great option if you are bringing your own car or bike from Bali or Lombok, especially if you are planning on exploring the west side of Sumbawa.  You can also take the ferry to Benete Harbour which takes 1.5 hours, however it’s worth noting that you will not be able to bring a vehicle on this ferry. 

If you are heading to the surfing destinations on the south-west coast you can take the KSB Fast Boat Service from the Newmont Mine which operates twice a day between Kayangan Passenger Terminal at Labuan Lombok and Benete Passenger Terminal at Maluk Sumbawa. The fast boat is modern and comfortable and takes approximately 1.5 hours. 

If you are coming from Bali, you can catch a ferry from Padang Bai to Lembar Harbour on Lombok which takes 5 hours and can be done overnight. There is also an option to bring your car or motorbike. Afterwards, it’s a 3 hour overland trip to Lembar Harbour in east Lombok. 

Boat From Flores

The journey from Labuan Bajo to Sape on the east coast takes around 5-7 hours or you can catch the bus to Bima which takes approximately 2-hours.

Best Time To Visit Sumbawa

Dry season is during the months of April through to October, which is the recommended time to visit Sumbawa, although August is the driest month. The temperature is hot all year round however the rainiest months are December, January and February where like much of Indonesia, there can often be monsoon-like downpours.

Best Areas To Stay in Sumbawa

Bima

This is the largest town on Sumbawa and whilst it is not necessarily a prime tourist destination itself, you might stay a night in Bima or Dompu when transiting, or as a base to explore Mount Tambora, the Sultan’s Palace and the surrounding Wawo area’s traditional villages and their famous thatched roof houses.

Recommended Stays in Bima

• Mid-range – Marina
• Budget – Hotel Lambitu

Sumbawa Besar

Like Bima, you might only stay here if you are transiting, but if you prefer, there is also the option to stay at Kencana Beach which is only 10kms away and offers a different experience. From here you can explore the Sultan’s Palace – Dalam Loka, and history-lovers can also visit the ancient relics of Aik Renung megalithic sites.

Recommended Stays in Sumbawa Besar

• Mid-range – Grand Samota Hotel
• Budget – Kencana Beach Hotel

Lakey Peak

There are a few options for accommodation in Lakey Peak which can accommodate a variety of prices from budget to midrange. Visitors to this area are mainly surfers, so the accommodation is often rustic and simple. There are a handful of cafes and restaurants that serve Western-style meals such as Fatmah’s Restaurant which also has Wifi. Be aware that if you need an ATM, the closest one is in Dompu, so we recommend making sure that you have cash before you arrive.

Recommended Stays in Lakey Peak

• Family – Rockpool Homestay
• Midrange – The Tree House
• Budget – Lucky Lakey

Sekongkang

More commonly known as Yoyo’s west Sumbawa to tourists, here you’ll find a decent selection of accommodation from budget to mid-range. There are a couple of cafes, tranquil beaches and surf spots within driving distance, and there is also the option to explore some stunning waterfalls and Bukit Mantar from here.

Recommended Stays in Sekongkang

• Luxury– Kini Resort
• Family – Kirana Retreat
• Midrange – Castaways Surf Retreat
• Budget – Lisa’s Garden

Moyo Island

There are a couple budget friendly options here as well as the luxury Amanwana Resort.

Getting Around Sumbawa

Sumbawa is a deceptively large island and driving from east to west would take a full day – it might even take up to 2 weeks to explore the entire island! There are no ride sharing apps available, so you will either need to bring your own vehicle from Bali or Lombok or arrange to rent a car or motorbikes there. The 3G across the island is relatively good, so you will be able to navigate easily using Google Maps. However, it’s worth noting that during high season it may be harder to come by vehicle rentals. Often, the most convenient option is to hire a private driver during your stay.

Places to Visit In Sumbawa

As Sumbawa is such a huge island, it’s not surprising that there are many places of interest to visit whilst you’re here. You could spend two weeks exploring the island and still not see everything!

Here are some highlights that we would recommend:

• Kencana Beach: Beach near Sumbawa Besar
• Moyo Island: Located north of Sumbawa and 45 mins from Kencana Beach, with the option to travel by public or private boat. There are quiet white sand beaches, jungles and the Mata Jitu Waterfall, which was made famous after Princess Diana holidayed there. The Amanwana Resort provides glamping options and there are also some other resorts on the island which provide accommodation.
• Sultan’s Palace in Sumbawa Besar: Dalam Loka
• Kenawa Island: 15 mins by boat from Pototano Port. This compact island has a small hill that you can climb and see over to Mt Rinjani on Lombok. It also offers some stunning scenic views, fun snorkelling spots and you can even watch the sunset from the pier. Bring your own food and drinks as the warung and food vendors offer limited options. There are also rustic bungalows which you can stay in overnight with options to camp if you prefer to walk on the wild side! Be aware that weekends are often more crowded with domestic tourists. 
• Paserang Island: a small island near Kenawa Island with white sand beaches, green hills, mangrove trees, sunrise and sunset, views of Mt Rinjani, and amazing sea life. The island can be accessed by fishing boat and there is also bungalow accommodation available if you fancy staying overnight – but be sure to bring your own food and drinks. It’s also possible to visit Paserang island and Kenawa island on the same day.
• Gili Bola: Small island with diameter 700m. Easily accessible from Labu Pade which takes around 15-20 minutes. It’s a picture paradise of white sandy beaches, beautiful coral reefs and plenty of coconut trees. 
• Satonde Island: contains a refreshing lake that you can swim in.
• Lariti Beach: located near Bima in east Sumbawa and at low tide you can walk across to a small island.
• Lakey Peak: this surfing town is found on the east coast of Sumbawa and is renowned for its world-class breaks which are best visited from February to November. And for those who aren’t a fan of surfing, you can also swim, snorkel and enjoy the beautiful beach.
• Mount Tambora National Park: a 4 to 5 hour drive from Bima, or you can choose to take the public bus leaving from Terminal Dara in Bima at around 6am. 

• Wera/Sangeang Village: a coastal village where they build traditional wooden Phinisi boats using centuries old techniques which have been handed down through generations. It’s an amazing opportunity to watch the boat builders as they create these masterpieces. The village is 1.5 hours north of Bima by private car, and we would recommend that you take a guide and/or interpreter with you. Be sure to take snacks and drinks for the journey too!
• Batu Tering Megalith Sites: drive around 1 hour south of Sumbawa Besar and you will find the ancient wonders of Aik Renung and Raboran stone sarcophagus sites, as well as the Liang Petang and Laing Bukal Caves. These are some of the oldest Neolithic sites in the world, dating back to ‘The New Stone Age’. The Aik Renung sarcophagus is estimated to be 4,000 years old! Due to the ornate carvings, the tombs are thought to be made for housing the bodies of chiefs. We also recommend checking-out the Liang Petang Cave, which is a limestone cave with tunnels that stretch 500m into a mountain side. Artefacts like pottery and human remains have been discovered here. There is also a bat cave, Liang Bukal cave, which is near to a river where you can swim and have a picnic. The caves are around a 20 minute hike from Batu Tering Village. 
• Wadu Pa’a Stone Carving Site: carvings on cliffs referencing the Buddhist and Hindu religions which date back to around 700 AD and depict maritime trade with India and China. The site is just north of Sowa Village, around 60 km or a 1.5 hour drive from Bima.
• Don Donggo traditional villages: occupied by a small minority ethnic group, the people of Don Donggo fled to the highlands over 400 years ago to escape Islamification. They have managed to keep their distinct identity including religion, language, dress and culture. You will also have the opportunity to see their stilted houses with high, thatched roofs which are architecturally different to the rest of Sumbawa. Over the last 50 years, many Donggos have converted to Islam but still practise traditional Dongu customs and traditions. All 11 communities are within 10kms of each other on the Soromandi Mountain side, which is accessible from the Dompu to Bima road. You can catch amazing views over the Bima bay here also. 
• Pura Agung Udaya Parwata Hind Temple: found on the western slopes of Mount Tambora, it was constructed in 1984 by a logging company for Hindu employees. There has been some controversy surrounding the temple in the past with tension between the Muslim locals and Hindu worshippers. Just like when visiting temples in Bali, you must wear a sarong and a sash, which are both available to rent at the temple for a donation. 
• Marente Waterfalls: these are three waterfalls located within the jungle mountainside which can be reached by hiking. It will take around 30 mins to arrive at the Sekotok waterfall, another 1 hour to reach Agal waterfall and the third Sebra waterfall takes 5-7 hours one way – so you will need to leave very early, or plan to camp. We would definitely recommend hiring a local guide!
• West Sumbawa: many white, sandy beaches, clear water and endless picturesque bays. There are plenty of surf breaks for all levels, and you can swim and snorkel here also. Not only will you get to enjoy beautiful beaches, but between May and November you may even be lucky enough to spot turtles laying their eggs! Be warned that some roads are only accessible via 4WD. Tropicals and Jelen are the most popular spots for swimming at Maluk Bay. 
• Bungin Island: a fishing community created upon an island made of coral! It is a ‘landless’ village, with the high tide engulfing the island with water and where 14,000 Bajau people live in stilted homes. There is a causeway to reach the island where locals have stacked corals to support more housing. Again, we would recommend taking a guide with you. 

• Semporon Tangkel Waterfall: a gorgeous waterfall in west Sumba which is easily reached with a short 5 min walk.
• Sekongkang Waterfall: another stunning waterfall in west Sumbawa that’s a 30 minute hike along the river to get there.
• Balisung Waterfall: Waterfall in west Sumbawa.
• Jereweh Waterfall: a waterfall with limestone cliffs which is easily accessible from Sekongan. Be aware that this waterfall can get quite busy on the weekend. 
• Bukit Mantar: a hill you can climb in west Sumbawa with epic views over the Sumbawa Strait to Lombok and Mount Rinjani. 
• Snake Island: a tiny island inhabited by silver and black ringed sea snakes. Although the snakes are venomous, they only have tiny mouths so bites are not common and you will see locals confidently handling the snakes. Pai village is around a 3 hour drive from Bima.
• Japanese World War II bunkers near Lakey Peak

Things To Do In Sumbawa

Most activities in Sumbawa include exploring the untouched and pristine natural surroundings. It is also a great place to visit for adventure junkies.

• Hike Mount Tambora: the site of the largest volcanic explosion in history, which wiped-out 75,000 people in 1815.
• Swim with whale sharks at Saleh Bay: the best time of year to do this is usually May to August. Tours often leave in the middle of the night from Sumbawa Besar to get there first thing in the morning. Pick-up is around midnight to drive 3 hours to reach the whale shark area. A local fishing boat will then take you to see the whale sharks at sunrise. Many visitors also choose to visit Moyo Island after visiting the whale sharks.
• Visit Waterfalls
• Surfing and kite surfing
• Visit cultural and historic sites
• Take a day trip or camp at one of the islands
• Dive and snorkel

Food To Try in Sumbawa

You’ll find a few Western style places to eat throughout Sumbawa, particularly in the surf areas. It’s also worth noting that alcohol is not widely available and the selection is often very limited – mostly Bintang beer only. However, wine and spirits can sometimes be found at some hotels throughout the island . We would also recommend caution when trying local street food and instead, dining at some of the more reputable restaurants which we have mentioned below:

• Lisa’s Garden: in the Yoyo’s area has decent meals for great value including vegan, vegetarian and gluten free options. 
• Fatmah’s: at Lakey Peak has Western food, healthy options and good wifi.

Some of the traditional food of Sumbawa include:

• Singagng: a spicy fish dish.
• Bubur palopo: buffalo porridge which uses fresh buffalo milk, brown sugar and other unique ingredients. 
• Sepat: grilled fish served with sauce and other fresh condiments. 
• Gecok: like sepat but using beef instead of fish, which also has a sweet and sour flavour.

Sumbawa Travel Tips

When travelling to Sumbawa, it’s essential to keep these travel tips in mind to make the most of your experience:

• A recommended trip length is 5-7 days if you are exploring one side of the island. For a comprehensive tour of the island, it may take 2-3 weeks or more. 
• 3G with Telekomsel is accessible across the island and most accommodation in the surfing areas also have decent wifi. 
• It’s difficult to find alcoholic drinks other than Bintang, as it is a majority Islamic population. You may be able to find wine, other beer and spirits at some of the midrange surf accommodations. 
• Women should cover their shoulders and legs when travelling, especially outside of the surf areas and when in the big towns and cities. Bima especially is more conservative than Sumbawa Besar.
• The main roads are mostly well-maintained, however off the main roads you will often find potholes and dirt tracks, so be careful if you choose to drive yourself.
• English is not widely spoken, especially away from more touristy surf areas like Lakeys and Yoyos, so you may wish to travel with a guide or an English speaking driver. 
• Take any Western creature comforts with you as there are no Western supermarkets on the island. This includes things like sunscreen, toiletries, healthy snacks etc. 
• There are some surf shops on the island where you can get sunscreen, board wax, leg ropes etc, but these are only found in the surfing areas. 
• Hospitals: There is Rumah Sakit Umum Bima Hospital and Rumah Sakit HL Manambai Abdul Kadir in Bima, Rumah Sakit Umum Daerah Kota Bima and Rumah Sakit Umum Kabupaten in Sumbawa Besar, and Rumah Sakit Umum Daerah in Dompu. These hospitals will not be at the standard of international hospitals in Bali and it is best to travel with a well stocked First Aid kit.
• Food hygiene may not always be the best. Try and stick to eating at the surf accommodation or cafes and restaurants targeting tourists in the surf areas. It’s a good idea to travel with hydralites and charcoal pills.
• Make sure you are vaccinated for Malaria.
• Stay away from stray animals as cases of rabies have been found on the island. 
• If staying outside of the main tourist areas, you may need a torch as many towns run on generator power and blackouts are common.A recommended trip length is 5-7 days if you are exploring one side of the island. For a comprehensive tour of the island, it may take 2-3 weeks or more. 
• 3G with Telekomsel is accessible across the island and most accommodation in the surfing areas also have decent wifi. 
• It’s difficult to find alcoholic drinks other than Bintang, as it is a majority Islamic population. You may be able to find wine, other beer and spirits at some of the midrange surf accommodations. 
• Women should cover their shoulders and legs when travelling, especially outside of the surf areas and when in the big towns and cities. Bima especially is more conservative than Sumbawa Besar.
• The main roads are mostly well-maintained, however off the main roads you will often find potholes and dirt tracks, so be careful if you choose to drive yourself.
• English is not widely spoken, especially away from more touristy surf areas like Lakeys and Yoyos, so you may wish to travel with a guide or an English speaking driver. 
• Take any Western creature comforts with you as there are no Western supermarkets on the island. This includes things like sunscreen, toiletries, healthy snacks etc. 
• There are some surf shops on the island where you can get sunscreen, board wax, leg ropes etc, but these are only found in the surfing areas. 
• Hospitals: There is Rumah Sakit Umum Bima Hospital and Rumah Sakit HL Manambai Abdul Kadir in Bima, Rumah Sakit Umum Daerah Kota Bima and Rumah Sakit Umum Kabupaten in Sumbawa Besar, and Rumah Sakit Umum Daerah in Dompu. These hospitals will not be at the standard of international hospitals in Bali and it is best to travel with a well stocked First Aid kit.
• Food hygiene may not always be the best. Try and stick to eating at the surf accommodation or cafes and restaurants targeting tourists in the surf areas. It’s a good idea to travel with hydralites and charcoal pills.
• Make sure you are vaccinated for Malaria.
• Stay away from stray animals as cases of rabies have been found on the island. 
• If staying outside of the main tourist areas, you may need a torch as many towns run on generator power and blackouts are common.

*************************************************

So as you can see from this travel guide, Sumbawa is packed full of adventure and rustic charm. From its vast landscapes, ancient sites and perfect swells, this is an island which offers a treasure trove of experience for the curious soul.