It takes several flights, long drives, and a small wooden boat to reach the Derawan Islands, but when you find yourself swimming beside the sea’s gentlest giants, every mile finally makes sense.
The Derawan Islands are a remote archipelago tucked away in East Kalimantan, Indonesia. Scattered across the Celebes Sea, these islands are defined by powdery white sandy beaches, crystal clear waters, and extraordinary marine biodiversity. Though reaching them requires quite some time, the journey is more than rewarded by the beauty that awaits.
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Getting There – The Adventure Begins!
Getting to the Derawan Islands is an adventure in itself. The most common journey begins with a flight from Bali to Balikpapan in East Kalimantan. Many travellers, ourselves included, choose to spend a night here in order to rest and explore the city’s well-known oceanfront seafood restaurants.
From Balikpapan, a second flight takes you north to Berau. Once in Berau, the landscape begins to change. A scenic 3-hour drive will take you to the coastal departure point, where a small motorboat carries you across the water to your chosen island paradise.
Where to Stay
We decided to stay in Derawan, which is the main and most inhabited island of the archipelago. It offers the widest range of tourist facilities and serves as a convenient base for exploring nearby islands and swimming with whales harks. Our accommodation was simple and budget-friendly, far from luxurious, but perfectly comfortable and in line with our goal of travelling economically.
For those seeking a more indulgent experience, there are several upscale options in the area, including Virgin Cocoa Resort, Nunukan Island Resort and Nabucco Resort. These resorts offer private villas, overwater bungalows, and a more exclusive island experience.
Our 4-day itinerary was arranged by Cruising Indonesia, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the region’s natural wonders without worrying about the logistics. From snorkelling with whale sharks to island-hopping across untouched sandbanks, each day brought new highlights.
Day 1 – Adjusting to Island time
Derawan Island is small enough to cycle around in about 30-minutes. A colourful village lines the shoreline, and many of the houses and guesthouses stand on wooden stilts above the water. Long jetties stretch out into the sea, and beneath them, sea turtles can often be seen swimming and feeding.
After arriving around lunchtime, we explored the island by bicycle. Rentals are easy to find, and electric scooters are also available. The atmosphere is relaxed, with small local restaurants serving fresh seafood and Indonesian dishes.
On the northern side of the island, away from the main village, we found a quiet stretch of white sand beach. Snorkelling near a jetty revealed healthy corals in pink, green, and orange hues, surrounded by tropical fish. It was an easy and accessible introduction to the underwater life that Derawan is known for.
We ended the day with sunset on the beach, vibrant orange and red tones reflecting off calm waters – a reminder of how remote and peaceful the island feels.
Day 2 – Swimming with Ocean Giants
The highlight of our trip was visiting the whale shark feeding area near the local fishermen’s offshore platforms. We left at 5am on a small wooden boat. At sunrise, the simple wooden structures where local fishermen work throughout the night came into view. Whale sharks usually gather there to feed on leftover small fish. When we arrived, one whale shark was already circling, and shortly after, three more appeared.
Seeing them up close is initially intimidating. Getting into deep ocean water beside the largest fish in the world is not something your instincts immediately encourage, but once in the water, their behaviour is calm and predictable. They move slowly, filtering fish with wide, open mouths. Maintaining a respectful distance, particularly from the tail, is essential. Only a few other boats were present, with around six snorkellers in total. Compared to more commercial whale shark destinations in Indonesia, this felt controlled and relatively intimate.
In Indonesia, whale sharks are sometimes referred to as hiu mbok or hiu nenek, “grandmother sharks”, a reflection of their calm nature. They carried an ancient, gentle energy, moving with quiet confidence. Swimming beside them felt truly special and almost spiritual, like sharing the water with ocean guardians.
After the whale shark experience, we visited Sangalaki Island, known for its turtle conservation efforts.
The island is surrounded by bright white sand and shallow turquoise waters. In a small conservation area, baby green sea turtles are raised in tanks until they are strong enough to be released into the ocean. The beaches here are wide and quiet, particularly during low tide when shallow sandbanks appear. We had lunch at the island’s only resort before snorkelling offshore in deeper water, where coral reefs were more developed.
Day 3 – Hidden Lagoons & Jellyfish
On our third day, we set off early for another island-hopping adventure, this time to Kakaban and Maratua.
Kakaban is home to one of the most extraordinary phenomena in Indonesia: Kakaban Lake, one of the only places on earth where it is possible to safely swim with jellyfish. This isolated marine lake was formed thousands of years ago when part of the ocean became trapped inland. Over time, the jellyfish living inside evolved without natural predators and gradually lost their ability to sting.
The island itself is surrounded by clear turquoise waters and vibrant coral reefs. We docked at a wooden jetty and climbed up onto the island, following a narrow boardwalk that led through dense jungle towards the lagoon. The path felt almost prehistoric, lush green vegetation, limestone rock formations, bright tropical birds flitting through the trees, and the constant soundtrack of insects and rustling leaves. Once we reached the lake, it opened up to us like a hidden world.
Within the lake, the water was clear and calm, and hundreds of jellyfish drifted gently beneath the surface. Swimming among them is safe and surprisingly fascinating, their translucent bodies and orange undersides visible in the sunlight. They brushed lightly against our skin as we moved, a strange but harmless sensation, slightly slimy, undeniably fascinating. At times, a few other tourists arrived and left. But because we lingered longer than most, we eventually had the lagoon completely to ourselves.
Once we had finished at the jellyfish lagoon, we decided to snorkel in the water surrounding the island. The reef there drops into a dramatic wall where larger fish can be seen due to the sudden depth.
We then headed to another hidden lagoon on Kakaban Island called Kehe Daing, this one, however, had no jellyfish; instead, its beauty lay in the coral. Large coral heads were visible even from above the water. The lagoon was wide and serene, framed by white sand and calm, shallow water. Although the tide was unusually low that day, making proper swimming difficult, it offered something equally special. We were able to slowly walk through the water, observing the coral formations up close, almost as if snorkelling, except without submerging. It was a unique experience that felt like wandering through an open-air aquarium.
At Maratua Island, we snorkelled vibrant coral reefs where sea turtles were abundant. We also spotted a small reef shark and a stingray. The reefs here are healthy and colourful, making it a strong snorkelling location even for non-divers.
On the return journey to Derawan, we encountered a pod of dolphins that swam alongside our boat, riding the bow wave and occasionally leaping into the air. After a day of jellyfish lakes, coral walls, turtles, sharks, and rays, the dolphins felt like a final gift from the ocean, a wild, joyful ending to an already unforgettable adventure.
Day 4 – Beach & Relax
For our last day, we stayed on Derawan Island. After several early mornings and full days of island-hopping, we wanted to fully relax and soak in our final hours. We woke up without an alarm and had a later breakfast before packing a small bag for the day: a portable speaker, towels, sunscreen, snorkels, and sunglasses. Then we rented bicycles once again and headed toward the easternmost point of the island.
There we found long empty beaches with shallow water stretching far from shore, ideal for relaxing. After staying there a while, we continued walking along the beach. Further from the village, deeper water made swimming easier, and palm trees provided natural shade. It was a simple, quiet way to close the trip.
We stayed until sunset, watching the light fade over the Celebes Sea, a fitting end to four days filled with marine encounters, remote islands, and unspoiled nature.
An Idyllic Tropical Escape
The Derawan Islands are not the easiest destination to reach, but that is part of their appeal. Fewer crowds, unspoilt reefs, and meaningful wildlife encounters make the journey worthwhile.
For travellers seeking marine biodiversity, island-hopping adventures, and a more off-the-beaten-path Indonesian experience, Derawan remains one of the country’s most rewarding hidden gems. Are you ready to discover it for yourself?
